UPZ RC-10 movement inside shell

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slayer
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UPZ RC-10 movement inside shell

Post by slayer » Monday 26 October 2015, 3:30

Hi there carvers,
Another probably newbie question, as my first time with hard boots.

So I got the RC-10s in Mondo 30 shell, with 29.5 inner, as the smaller shell was just too tight.

After customising them with the red tongues and the DGSS spring system, I tried them on today, with a board strapped on. Of course I had a lot more flex, but I also noticed a feeling that the inner was moving a lot inside my boot as I leaned forward. I didn't notice this with the standard setup as the boot is stiffer.

Question is, is this normal, or a bad idea? I also note that the shell has quite a lot of volume, meaning I am on the last clasp of the fittings.

cheers,
Slayer
Soft: Dual 175, Burton Driver-X, Flux CV
Hard: Gen4 175M, UPZ RC10, F2 Race Titanium

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joemzl
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Re: UPZ RC-10 movement inside shell

Post by joemzl » Monday 26 October 2015, 18:15

Hi slayer,

with "inner", you mean the liner, correct?
You feel your liner is moving? Hm, strange.
Could it be, that your feet are moving, instead of the liner?

I had the same problem with the liner of my RC8.
I changed the original sole into a thicker one and felt fine.

Another idea: what ist the length of your feet ?
Extreme Dreamer every night

Swoard Pro 175M +Race Ti Flex, Plasma CE185/17, Swoard Stoke 162M

slayer
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Re: UPZ RC-10 movement inside shell

Post by slayer » Monday 26 October 2015, 20:37

Yes, sorry, I mean the liner.
It did not feel like my feet were moving in the liner, but the liner itself, around the area where the boot 'hinge' is.

My feet are definitely at least 29.5 Mondo as measured, in the shop for whatever reason it was 30 (probably weight distribution spread when not measuring yourself).

Just wondering if I should go back to the shop or live with it. Boots haven't been used, but I did remove the spring system (with some difficulty).

cheers,
Slayer.
Soft: Dual 175, Burton Driver-X, Flux CV
Hard: Gen4 175M, UPZ RC10, F2 Race Titanium

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joemzl
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Re: UPZ RC-10 movement inside shell

Post by joemzl » Tuesday 27 October 2015, 18:41

Moving forward-backward, or up and down?

Against ups and downs, you could put something like a second sole under the liner, to reduce the space.
Against slippery maybe something like a second sole with felt, or you reduce the space in front of the shell.
Extreme Dreamer every night

Swoard Pro 175M +Race Ti Flex, Plasma CE185/17, Swoard Stoke 162M

slayer
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Re: UPZ RC-10 movement inside shell

Post by slayer » Tuesday 27 October 2015, 22:02

Hi joemzl,

The movement is forward-backward. I do suspect as the liner compacts, if it compacts, I may have 'too large volume' issues as I am already on the last clasps on the shell.

I guess a piece of foam in front of the liner? Is this what people do?

I should note, i did try smaller shells, but apart from my big toe definitely being bent against the top edge, I also had bad pain on the 'inner ankle bone' area, similar to the problem I have with ice-skates, where there is so much rubbing on that area, I lose the skin if I skate more than 5 minutes. Hence I don't skate at all, to the disappointment of my wife! I do have low arch issues which would contribute to this.

I do still feel some pressure in these Mondo 30 shells, but it is bearable, so maybe I should stick with these. I guess my real question, which I should have asked at the beginning, is how much do UPZ liners compact over time, which is to answer the another question, should I stick with these Mondo 30 shells, or suffer for a bit on Mondo 29.5 with the hope I will find it OK at some point?

Abrax did mention on a PM, just before I bought these UPZ's :), to try replacing the liners with Thermoliners: http://www.deeluxe.com/products/detaile ... ack-green/. Although not sure you can put Deeluxe liners in UPZ shells, guess it should be possible...?


Hope this makes some sense to someone! :-)

cheers,
Slayer
Soft: Dual 175, Burton Driver-X, Flux CV
Hard: Gen4 175M, UPZ RC10, F2 Race Titanium

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Re: UPZ RC-10 movement inside shell

Post by pokkis » Tuesday 27 October 2015, 22:08


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daniel175m
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Re: UPZ RC-10 movement inside shell

Post by daniel175m » Tuesday 27 October 2015, 22:35

That would be the austrian answer http://www.upz-boots.at/foamliner.html. I've made myself quite good experience with foam liners from Strolz.
Swoard Extremecarver Pro2 168h, Swoard Dual2 175, UPZ RC12 / DGSS

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Re: UPZ RC-10 movement inside shell

Post by joemzl » Tuesday 27 October 2015, 22:46

slayer wrote:I guess a piece of foam in front of the liner? Is this what people do?
Try it out to see if it helps.
If yes, maybe there are other possibilities.
Anyway - it´s cheaper than buying new liners (and maybe having the same problem again)

Palau´s are recommended, agree.
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Swoard Pro 175M +Race Ti Flex, Plasma CE185/17, Swoard Stoke 162M

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drupi
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Re: UPZ RC-10 movement inside shell

Post by drupi » Tuesday 27 October 2015, 23:41

see this page for thickness, Velcro, for shims, the, innerboot
http://www.upz-boots.at/floliner.html

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Re: UPZ RC-10 movement inside shell

Post by contyme » Thursday 29 October 2015, 3:06

It's very helpful, thank you very much!



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http://www.coquegsm.com/category-access ... j1-38.html

slayer
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Re: UPZ RC-10 movement inside shell

Post by slayer » Thursday 29 October 2015, 4:08

yes, thanks for the suggestions.
Soft: Dual 175, Burton Driver-X, Flux CV
Hard: Gen4 175M, UPZ RC10, F2 Race Titanium

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Hans
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Re: UPZ RC-10 movement inside shell

Post by Hans » Sunday 1 November 2015, 11:05

Probably due to low volume feet. Try a thicker insole and or some velcro under the liner which you can glue into the outershell: beware that the innerliner will be more difficult to get out of the boot than. Or let them make you some proper custom fit innerliners, I have the ones from Strolz (In my Deeluxe 700 hardboot) and from Bootdoc (in my Upz rc10 2016). You can't have boots letting you destroy your expensive wintersportholiday. For about eur 220,-- your problem will be solved with custom foamed innerliners.

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Re: UPZ RC-10 movement inside shell

Post by PhaethonF1 » Monday 21 December 2015, 15:17

An extra layer of a 2-3mm thick rubber under the insole may do. Just cut it in the shape of the insole base and place it between the insole and the shell. Make sure the cut is right so that it doesn't move around in the shell.

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